Lemurs are primates endemic to Madagascar and all the 107 species face serious threats:  deforestation, due to slash-and-burn agriculture, charcoal production and mining, represents the main cause. Moreover, poaching activities and pet trade affect the survival of many species, such as the black-and-white ruffed lemur (Varecia variegata). These Critically Endangered lemurs are confined now to a few remaining forest patches, becoming smaller every year. Their unique morphology and their resistance to captive conditions make them among the main poaching targets. Tourists contribute to raising the demand: sadly, social networks are filled with pictures portraying manipulated lemurs posing on the tourists’ shoulders. The present story includes mostly images captured during my PhD data collection in the Maromizaha rainforest (Madagascar). I outlined not only the ecology of this species but also the research and conservation efforts conducted in this reserve. I also witnessed cases of exploitation of poached animals, and habitat destruction. This portfolio aims to raise awareness about the challenges of conserving black-and-white ruffed lemurs and promote responsible tourism.